Showing posts with label Joshua tree national park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Joshua tree national park. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Desert Trippin'

Sunset on the desert

Ruth and I bolted out to the desert for the weekend, one night spent in the reputedly therapeutic mineral baths of Desert Hot Springs (DHS is where we met, 13 years ago. Yup, first time I laid eyes on my wife she was in a bikini. [insert shit-eating grin]) and a second night up the road in Joshua Tree, a place we know well.

Amniotic weather. Barking ravens, hushed owl tones. The schizoid yipping of coyotes at dusk. Dr Seuss trees twisting in hi-contrast silhouettes against hard pastels . Bitter tea honeyed. Scents of chamisa and mesquite, creosote. Flickering firelight cast on warped boulders. Diamond shards ripple and flash across the northern sky. Amorphous rock blobs respire, silver in the pale moon light.
Then a silence so pure it must be a dream.
JTree. Used to be a card carrying resident, but then I grew up.

The textures of the desert.

Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch. This is a year round spring.
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch, main house.
Desert Queen Ranch
Bill Keys left his mark on this land.
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Desert Queen Ranch
Sunset in the Hi-Desert
The remains of this old stone cabin lie above the Silver Queen Mine.
Heavy monsoon rains the previous week had awakened millions of tiny yellow desert flowers.
Spiny. Venomous. Disastrous to pets and humans alike.
The North American Jumping Cholla (pronounced "Choya").
You haven't lived until you've spent most of a night, beer in one hand and pliers in the other, sucking on a cigarette under the lantern light while  pulling a passel of cholla needles out of your friend's leg,
your very inebriated and unlucky friend.
Ocotillo on the desert.
Hi-Desert Empty

More photos at: Flickr

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

"Chasm of Doom" cave system, Joshua Tree National Park


Real Hidden Valley, click image to enlarge

More to tell from a brief weekend in JTNP. Down by Real Hidden Valley there is a cave/tunnel/chimney that long ago earned the name Chasm. This system starts on the outer, eastern side of Real Hidden and runs over, under, and through a large rock formation, exiting inside Real Hidden. In other words, in it's 100 yards, it transits through a "mountain". Chasm is so cool to go through at night, and if the moon is out, some of the light beams through various cracks in the passage. It's a way shroomy passage.
Chasm requires a bit of nerve, some modest climbing skills, and a willingness to get dirty. Some sections are a pretty tight squeeze (The Birth Canal comes to mind), but a good wiggler can find a way through. 

To find Chasm start at the parking for the Real Hidden Valley loop trail and head west towards Loose Lady. If you reach Saturday Night Live you have gone too far. At the first set of picnic tables on the right there is a use trail angling up into the rocks. This path becomes a scramble over and under large boulders, ascending until one reaches an obvious crack/cave system.

Finding the start of it is no small feat. I have had trouble every time I've looked for it, mostly due to the memory retardants I'd ingested on prior excursions, years ago. But I re-found it in broad daylight. To twist Van Morrison, "I can see clearly now, my buzz is gone. I can see all the obstacles in my way..." and climb over them like a Range Rover Defender. I'm out.


Start by negotiating this pile of enormous boulders. 

To pass Chasm you intermittently squeeze, scramble, and crawl.  Don't wear your bestest clothes.
Above and Below: entering, and standing in Chasm's largest vault.


Squeeze & Scrape.
Chimney, dirty chimney. 



Light beams through numerous gaps in the rock, which makes Chasm especially fun on a full-moon night.  This part, with the huge overhead cap-stone is called The Cathedral and is best enjoyed on a moonlit night.
The exit crack, which ends inside Real Hidden Valley.

Wall Street Mill, Joshua Tree National Park


The Wall Street Mill in Joshua Tree National Park is a neatly hidden slice of local desert history. Though no secret, it can be difficult to find, especially for those who get turned around easily. Located on the eastern border of an area of the park called Wonderland of Rocks, this site was an operating gold ore crushing facility during the 1930's and '40's. The trailhead is reached by taking the first left after the Barker Dam parking lot. This trail winds around rock formations (and some great bouldering) headed roughly northeast and brings one to the mill in about a mile, if you don't get lost first.  shortly into the hike, those with open eyes might spy a concrete slab, pinkish, that is poured just under a large boulder. This was the floor of a bunkhouse used by the men who worked the mill. Shortly after that, you see the remains of an old, old truck. This is one of three vehicles from that era in the vicinity of the mill. It was likely used for everything from the transportation of ore to the mill to the drive down to San Bernadino where the gold could be exchanged for cash.

This truck had a straight-6.

Wall Street Mill is built onto the side of a low hill, taking advantage of gravity in the milling process. The ore would be brought up a track to the top of the mill, it would then travel down a chute, drop into a hopper, and then get crushed by a gasoline engine powered, two stamp Baker Iron Works crusher. From there, the crushed ore was processed through a device called a Myer Concentrating Table. It is likely that cast off ore (talings) were then further leached of gold using an arsenic and mercury reduction process. All in all, this would have been a hellish place to work. Hades in the summer, bitter cold in the winter, loud, and considering all the machinery and chemicals, rather dangerous employment.

The mill was built by a bull-headed, hard drinking desert rat named Bill Keys. He basically claimed what is now JTNP as his own in the 1930's. He did not get along well with other prospectors in the neighborhood. In 1943, Keys got into a dispute with another prospector named Worth Bagley. Apparently, Bagley wanted access to the Wall Street for the purpose of processing some of his own ore. It is unclear what all was involved in that gentlemanly discussion, but it culminated in Keys killing Bagley in a gun fight. Bill Keys made a headstone for the recently deceased and, asshole that he was, he wrote this on the marker:
"Here is where Worth Bagley bit the dust at the hand of W. F. Keys, May 11, 1943"


Hard to imagine, but all the following photos were shot inside the lower levels of this 30 foot tall "structure".
These 40 pound slugs are the actual "stamps" used in the 2 stamp mill.
This is a small side room, added to the overall structure, where the gas powered engine that ran the mill was stored.



These were likely used for arsenic and mercury gold ore reduction (leeching). Above the hill that the mill is built into lies the remains of a large water tank, fed by water pumped from a nearby well.


You've got to love the craftsmanship behing these wooden wheels. 
Some of the original belts remain intact.
The Baker Iron Works 2 Stamp Mill.

Above and Below: what was probably a pretty sweet 1936 Dodge back in the day.
P.S.: If you go on this walk, and have very keen eyes (or damn good luck)you can spot some ancient petroglyphs.